
Here in Ontario, its “Classics” time again.
A few times per year, the LCBO – our government owned wine merchant which enjoys a near-monopoly – offers up a collection of its high-end wines and spirits.
“Classics” are listed in an increasingly glossy catalogue. This obviously avoids putting such expensive products (this edition ranges to over $2000) on retail shelves. It also makes it possible to sell these products, often in very limited supply, by lottery to customers throughout the province.
Each release offers something of spectrum. Nothing is cheap, but not everything is astronomically expensive. There are always a handful of spirits (Congac, Single Malt Scotch, Eaux-de-Vie, etc), and a larger number of fortified wines (several Vintage and Tawny Ports, and a Sherry or two). The overwhelming emphasis is on high-end table wines.
Any of these releases are full of wines from first: France’s Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, Rhone Valley and second: Italy’s Piedmont, Tuscany, Veneto. These regions also produce vast quanities of lesser bottles, but are particularly known for their premium-plus wines. Next come areas, like California and Australia... rather less grand (although not without pretigious bottles) these are particularly popular in our market.
Beyond these, there are smaller offerings from the top-end of wines from elsewhere (South Africa to Germany, Chile to Ontario, etc).
Bordeaux is perhaps most commonly associated with the luxury market. It’s high-end wines are rich with tradition and fine craftmanship. Many are produced in small quanities, and are eagerly sought after by collectors. Whatever their motives (there are many), these collectors have driven the price of some high-end Bordeaux to stagering heights.
The young wines on offer – as is traditional for Bordeaux – are joined by a smattering of maturing examples. The Wines span a wide range from $50 to $1000, with (apparently responding to our local market) an emphasis on wines priced $100-$200.
At the top end is a dream: the 1990 Chateau Latour, estimated to almost ready for drinking ($980 per 750ml bottle).
Obviously (if you know me at all), I can not afford anything remotely as expensive as that bottle of Chateau Latour. Still I’m fond of these releases for two reaons:
First, the “Classics” offerings is an opportunity to purchase from a selection of ultra-premimum bottles. Indeed, the fact that its not easy to even have the opportunity to purchase a particular wine can have a great deal to do with its enormous price tag. Being the world’s biggest single purchaser of fine wine, the LCBO is able to pass along its priviledged access.
Second, “Classics” offers an opportunity to purchase some wines which are ill suited to retail sales on the LCBO’s large scale. These may be (a) high-end wines from less fashionable regions, (b) wines made (for various reasons) in small quanities, or (c) obsurities – of interest to the severely curious – very seldom sold in our market.
Here are a few, corresponding, examples:
(Ai) Late Harvested (“Spatlese” and “Auslese”), Riesling from Germany. ($30-$50)
(Aii) Alsatian whites from pretigious vineyards. ($45-60)
(Bi) Hermitage and Cote Rotie (Syrah from France’s Northern Rhone Valley) ($65-$150)
(Bii) made in even smaller quanities: Hermitage Blanc. ($49)
(Ci) a Vin Jaune... a dry, sherry-like wine from Jura in the French Alps. ($59)
(Cii) a 30+ year old Verdelho (off dry) Maderia. ($199)


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