What Could Be More Fun Than Bubbles?

Of all the famous things alledgly said, I have several favourites:
Oscar Wilde on his deathbed, “Either these curtains go or I do”.
Kermit the frog, “Time’s fun when you’re having flies” (can Kermit really be held accountable for anything he seemed to say?).
Dom Perignon – often credited with the “invention” of Champagne – marveling at his first taste of sparkling wine: “I am drinking the stars”.

It is almost certain that Dom Perignon never happily compared bubbles to stars. That sparkle was actually a source of great frustration. As cellarmaster at a Benedictine abbey near Epernay (Champagne, France), he worked to improve the wines of his region. These efforts were frustrated by one particular type of “spoilage”: local wines – because their fermentation tended to restart – were plagued by bubbles.
From this ironic beginning, bubbles were gradually embraced as a stylistic flare.

Today, there are several types of sparkling wines, each produced in many regions. It is easiest to become familiar with this range by organizing them according to the three major methods (i.e.: how did they get the bubbles in the bottle?).

Carbonation.
The very cheapest of sparkling wines are made by pumping, under pressure, carbon dioxide into a still wine. Leaving aside the usually awful quality of the base wine, these wines sparkle with big (or “coarse”) bubbles. Most important of all, carbonated wines (you may see vin gazife) go flat quickly.

Tank-Fermented.
This is also called Cuvee Close and, after its inventor, Charmat Method.
A base wine, along with a new dose of yeast and sugar, is put into a tank. Because this tank is tightly sealed, carbon dioxide (a byproduct of fermentation) is unable to escape and, instead, dissolves into the wine. Once this “secondary fermentation” is finished, the wine is transferred (under pressure) into bottles.
Wines made this way are of much better quality than their carbonated cousins. The process is more expensive than carbonation, but cheaper than Bottle-Fermentation (see below). Tank-Fermentation is best suited to producing fresh, fruity styles of wine.

Bottle-Fermented.
This process is also called Cap Classique, Traditional Method, “Method Champenois”, or a label may say “Fermented in this bottle”.
A base wine is put into bottles. Each bottle has a yeast/sugar dosage added, and is then sealed. Just as in the Tank-Method, fermentation produces carbon dioxide which, unable to escape the bottle, dissolves into the wine. Afterwards, the dead yeast cells are removed, and each bottle is topped up and resealed.
This method is very expensive... requiring huge amounts of labour and/or specialized machinery. It is capable of producing the finest (small, delicate) bubbles, in wines which will continue to sparkle for hours before going flat.




Now that we have a little technical knowledge out of the way: what about sparkling wines is worth getting excited about?


Bubbles cut through fatty/oily foods like nobody’s business.
Like a pint of beer with pub grub? I’m fond of hops, but with fish and chips, its the bubbles that are especially pleasing. Try a (few) glass(es) of Cava... traditional method sparkling wine from Spain... dry, slightly yeasty.

Nothing says delightful like Asti.
Asti Spumante (not to be confused with Spumante Bambino) is medium-sweet, frothy mouthful. Think of a bowl of peaches topped with cut green grapes, set that bowl next to a vase of fresh cut flowers... A lightly sparkling version is called Moscato d’Asti. Imagine a Sunday brunch where you are actually having fun... if you prefer Sunday football, try a bottle of Asti with a bowl of potato chips (for best results, make sure your wearing pink fuzzy slippers).

Champagne is a terrific example of a wine capable of producing unexpected aromas and flavours.
The vast majority of Champagne is white. The first one I ever met tasted of many things: some expected (lemon, apple) and others surprising. Strangely comfortable in this white wine was the flavour of milk chocolate.
The taste of chocolate, present in some sparkling wines, is produced by a process called yeast autolysis (translation: the self-digestion of yeast cells). After the second (in bottle) fermentation has finished, exaughsted (dead) yeast is left in contact with the wine. Enzymes, breaking down these yeast cells, cause a number of chemical changes in the wine. The most straightforward of these produce aromas and flavours which remind us of things from rising bread, through malt (think of “malted milk” like Olvaltine), and occasionally on to chocolate.


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Want to explore?

Cava (traditional method, sparkling wine from Spain) can’t be beat for value. For an introduction, try the basic wines from Heredad Segura Viudas (“Brut”), or Freixenet (“Cordon Negro Brut”)... both are less than $15.


Asti Spumante are easily found. Most often seen is Martini&Rossi ($13).
Moscato d’Asti is less common. In this market, your most likely to find one this time of year (spring). Just released: Batasiolo Moscato d’Asti Bosc d’la Rei ($18).


Champagne (a name reserved for only wines from a specific area of northern France) is never cheap. My introduction, which I would not discourage, was Lanson “Black Label” N.V. Brut ($45)

There are some terrific sparkling wines made here in Ontario. In my opinion the best is made by Henry of Pelham: Cuvee Catharine Brut Rose ($30). Very dry and yeast-scented, with lovely subtle fruit flavours.

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What could me more fun than bubbles?